Frequently Answered Questions
How to Begin When You Come Into One of Our Showrooms?
Please Watch This Short Video
How to maintain my kitchen cabinet?
- Wipe up spills, splatters and water spots at they occur - keep the cabinets dry.
- Residues such as smoke, cooking vapors, or body oils can be cleaned with a damp cloth with a small amount of high quality furniture cleaner.
- Avoid placing small kitchen appliances where heat or steam is directed onto cabinet surfaces.
- Avoid draping damp clothes or dishtowels over cabinet doors - excessive moisture can cause permanent damage.
Kitchen Cabinet Basic Cleaning Tips
- Remember to use a clean soft cloth such as an old T-shirt, cheesecloth, flannel or chamois with no snaps or buttons that may scratch the surface.
- Using a soft, lint free cloth, clean as needed by applying a mild detergent or soap with warm water.
- It is a good practice to follow the grain of wood when cleaning and polishing.
- Dry the surfaces immediately with a soft cloth. Avoid using a dishcloth or sponge - it could contain remnants of grease or detergents.
- Do not use products with bleach, ammonia or abrasive additives.
- Never use scouring pads, steel wool or powdered cleaners.
- Do not allow oven cleaners to come in contact with wood finishes.
- Avoid the use of silicones and waxes. Polishes are the best choice for use. They contain detergents to clean the dirt, emulsifiers to give it body to clean and last longer, and mineral oil is left behind as a barrier for dirt and moisture while leaving no wax or silicone residue.
How to maintain Granite Counter top
Seasonal Maintenance:
Sealing is a regular maintenance task for granite. Re-seal the countertop when water splashed on the surface no longer beads up. It's important to examine your granite at least once a year. Inspect areas to make sure there is no cracking or shifting at the seams. Inspect for stains and scratches as well. If there are stains or damage, contact a stone-care professional for repair.
How to clean up spilled cooking oil on countertop?
- Wipe up spills immediately
- Use mild soap and water to clean
- Rinse
- Use soft cloth to dry
What Products can I use to clean and maintain my countertop?
How to maintenance and care stainless steel sink?
**Please remember that a kitchen sink is heavy-duty utensil and may show traces of wear and tear overtime.
How to fix stainless steel sink surface scratches?
How to remove Rust Spots from stainless steel sinks?
What should not do to maintain stainless steel sink?
Do Not leave rubber mats or sponges inside the sink. Water trapped below could lead to staining and discolorations.
Do Not let food with a high salt content sit inside the sink for prolonged periods of time. Salt will cause pitting.
Do Not allow chlorine bleach to sit inside a stainless steel sink for more than 1 hour. The chlorine will attack the protective layer of the stainless steel. Always dilute chlorine bleach if used for disinfection.
Do Not allow drain cleaners to come into contact with the sink surface. The acids contained in these products will attack stainless steel.
What are your cabinet sides made out of?
What is MDF?
How are the cabinets finished?
What are the main differences between the STANDARD, TALL, and PREMIERE vanities?
What is the face frame constructed out of and how is it put together?
How does Ronbow make the finishing?
10 Step Finishing Process
1. All surfaces are machine/hand sanded, after which all dust particles are removed.2. Pre-stains are applied evenly to provide base color uniformity.
3. Products are stained by hand and undergo a slow drying process.
4. Chemical resistant sealer is applied.
5. Sealed products are baked to ensure complete cure throughout.
6. Sealed surfaces are hand sanded with ultra fine sandpaper.
7. Catalyzed varnish and conversion varnish are applied.
8. Products are sanded with fine grit sandpaper.
9. All dust particles are re-moved.
10. Products are quality inspected for cleanliness and smoothness for all sides – inside and out!
What kind of wood does Ronbow use?
- Solid Hardwood Frames Construction* - All of our cabinets have solid wood frame construction for high durability. We use absolutely NO PARTICLE BOARD or other cheap fillers! Our cabinets are designed to last.
- Hardwood Plywood*- Absolutely no particle board, HDF and Micro-Density Fiberboard MDF are used in any of our vanities! Many vanity manufacturers may show a cheap price, but offer a product that is designed to rot out and need replacing again and again. Our patented HARDWOOD PLYWOOD panels have the greatest dimensional stability, and are high tensile for durability and endurance. It has a high tolerance to humidity, and there is no swelling or sagging over time. Because our cabinets are more durable, it means that you are not going to need to replace them in the future as you would if you bought a lower quality product.
- All Plywood used meets strict CARB Standards
What is Strawboard Cabinetry?
Why Strawboard?
- Great strength: screws won’t split strawboard, and it holds crisp dove tails and other joints well
- Extremely moisture resistant: just what’s needed for a continuously damp environment such as a bath or a wet bar
- Very stable: won’t warp or crack Dense for clean, crisp definition of forms and edges
- Safe: no formaldehyde emissions
- Mold and termite resistance: Straw board is simply too dense to allow most spores to invade its surface
- Developed from quickly renewed sources: Strawboard is made using left over straw from wheat, barley and rice which means less waste. In fact, Strawboard actually has a NEGATIVE carbon footprint, since it’s not burned for disposal, as other straw is!
How does Ronbow assemble the cabinet?
- Perfectly fitting Dovetail Construction
- Solid Hardwood Construction*
- Full Extension Drawers
- Soft Closing Drawers
- Soft Closing Doors**
- Soft Closing Hinges are installed with European, all metal, heavy-duty concealed hinges
- And Soft Closing Drawer Glides are extremely strong and durable. A grand total of 180 precision steel balls roll into the tracks. Even continuous loading does not alter their perfectly round shape. The special track profiles and steel balls form a unit that distributes forces evenly in all directions. The result is high stability both vertically and horizontally.
What are your vanity tops made of?
Our tops are available in cultured marble, cultured onyx, and cultured granite. As their names imply, they have the look of genuine marble, onyx or granite, but they are manufactured with various fillers, resins and catalysts that can be poured into molds for a one piece engineered product. Though it is a less expensive alternative to natural stone, our cultured tops provide equivalent tensile strength to natural stone and they are easier to keep clean and maintain. Our vanity tops have an integrated back splash and sink bowl(s). This eliminates the need for grout/sealant lines which ultimately prevents mold and bacteria from forming in these highly susceptible areas.
The manufacturing process encompasses several steps. One step uses a non-porous gel-coat on the counters and integrated sink bowls which seals the product. Colorants are added to the polymer/filler matrix of our marble and onyx tops in a random manner which provides a “veining look” to the top; this veining mimics the appearance of real stone. The colorant in our cultured granite is mixed with the gel coat resins and is sprayed on before the polymer/filler matrix is poured into the molds. Our cultured marble tops are only available in a gloss finish. The cultured onyx and granite tops can be manufactured with either a matte/satin finish or the gloss finish.
This polymer casting process yields a strong, durable vanity top which will resist stains, most chemicals, heat from typical bathroom appliances (like curling irons on proper stands, etc.) and everyday wear and tear.
Your Onyx and Marble tops have similar colors, what is the main difference between them?
Why are there no over-flow holes in your sink bowls?
Do you make custom sized vanity tops?
Can you make a custom shaped vanity top?
Can I order a custom top without a bowl?
Can I cut or drill one of your vanity tops if needed?
How do I attach a side splash?
Flooring
How are they made?
The benefits of using engineered wood floors?
Include more resistance to higher moisture levels than solid wood flooring, which adds to their appeal to use in damp basements or in regions of the country that have higher relative humidity levels. Also, engineered flooring (excluding the newer Click Lock flooring) can be direct glued-down over (dry) concrete slabs above or below grade or stapled down over a wood subfloor. Quality Engineered Hardwood flooring has the same resale value as 3/4 IN. solid wood flooring, if you ever decide to sell your home.
Engineered Hardwood floors range in widths from 3-7 inches wide and in thicknesses from 3/8 - 3/4" they also come in a wide variety of domestic and exotic hardwood species and some are even available in the popular hand scraped styles. Some brands of engineered flooring have a thin .6 mm wear layer that can only be re-coated and cannot be sanded and refinished new again once they get worn. They have an average lifespan of between 20-30 years depending on traffic. Other brands or styles can have a thicker 2 - 6 mm thick wear layer that can be completely sanded and refinished 1- 5 times if they ever needed to be. These thicker wear layer engineered floors can last from 40 - 80 years before having to be replaced which add to their appeal.
What's the advantage of using an Engineered wood floor over a Solid nail down floor?
Can I use a Engineered wood floor in my basement?
Can I install a Engineered floor over other floor coverings such as vinyl or tile?
Can I glue down an Engineered wood floor over my concrete slab that is on grade?
What is the difference between prefinished and unfinished flooring?
Can we install hardwood flooring in the basement?
When ordering hardwood flooring how much extra should I order to allow for waste?
What are the benefits of hardwood flooring?
Should I expect my floor to have color variations?
What wood floor can I install over a concrete slab?
How to maintain my hardwood flooring?
- Wipe up spills immediately.
- Vacuum, sweep or dust mop your hardwood floor once a week, or more, if needed. The vacuum head must be brush or felt.
- Use interior and exterior doormats at entrances to collect dirt and moisture and prevent it from being tracked onto the floor.
- Area rugs are recommended in front of kitchen sinks, at all pivot points and within high-traffic areas. The rugs must be made of a breathable material to prevent moisture entrapment.
- Place runners and area rugs (with slip-resistant backings) along high-traffic areas.
- Keep animal nails trimmed to prevent finish scratches.
- To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy appliances and furniture on the floor. Use plywood hardboard or appliance lifts, if necessary.
- Use Armstrong or Bruce furniture leg protector pads under all furniture legs.
- Replace hard, narrow furniture rollers with wide rubber rollers.
- Keep the relative humidity in your home between 35% and 55%.
- Protect your floor from direct sunlight.
- Use any of the following products (or products similar in nature) on your floor: ammonia based cleaners, acrylic finishes, wax based products, detergents, bleach, polishes and oil soaps, abrasive cleaning soaps or acidic materials such as vinegar.
- Allow water to stand on your floor for any length of time – wipe up immediately.
- Walk across your floor in poorly maintained shoes with heel taps, spike heels or with any sharp object protruding from your shoe.
- Allow furniture to rest on the floor on small metal tips or hard domes.
- Use rubber, foam back or plastic mats as they may trap moisture and possibly discolor your floor.
- Do not use vacuums with beater bars or hard heads.
What are the advantages of laminate flooring over those of solid hardwood flooring?
What are laminate floors and how are they made?
How do I clean my laminate flooring?
- A damp cloth or mop can be used without damage to the laminate flooring panels, but do not use excessive water. Dry the floor thoroughly with a clean, soft cloth.
- Blot up spills or water from wet feet or footwear immediately with a clean, dry cloth, sponge, or paper towel. Do not allow excess liquid to remain on the surface of your laminate floor.
- Do not use soap-based detergents, abrasive cleaners, or combined “clean and shine” products on your laminate floor.
- Do not use steel wool or other scouring pads that may scratch laminate panels.
- Do not wax or polish your laminate flooring.
- Do not steam clean or use chemicals that may damage the laminate flooring surface.
What is a laminate flooring AC rating?
- AC1 is suitable for lighter, more infrequent traffic, e.g. a bedroom.
- AC2 is suitable for general residential use in living rooms and dining rooms.
- AC3 can be applied to more varied locations, such as small offices and other light commercial location
- AC4 can be installed in higher traffic commercial areas such as boutiques, busier offices, and restaurant
- AC5 is more durable still and can withstand the traffic of heavier commercial areas such as department stores and public buildings.
Why is a moisture barrier used on concrete?
How to maintain my laminated flooring?
Laminate flooring is virtually maintenance-free. Routine cleaning requires you only to vacuum, use a dust mop, or a slightly damp (not wet) mop and dry with a clean, white cotton cloth.
NEVER use a wax, polish, oil, or varnish coating on the floor. Do not use soap-based detergents, oil soaps, or one-step clean and shine type products, or any product that squirts liquid directly on the floor.
For dry maintenance, use a dust mop, microfiber mop, or vacuum cleaner. Avoid vacuum attachments with ‘beater bars’, which could damage your floor. Ensure vacuum cleaner wheels are not impregnated with grit; plastic wheels may scratch your floor.
WET MAINTENANCE IS ENTIRELY FORBIDDEN! Never wet mop or use wet or steam cleaners on your floor.
Remove stubborn stains carefully with a little acetone (fingernail polish remover) on a soft cloth. Never use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, or scouring powder, as they will scratch your floor.
What is the difference between standard “ceramic” tiles and porcelain tiles?
Tile terminology can be confusing. Most types of tiles that are made from clay or a mixture of clay and other materials, then kiln-fired, are considered to be a part of the larger classification called “Ceramic Tiles”. These tiles can be split into two groups, porcelain tiles and non-porcelain tiles. These non-porcelain tiles are frequently referred to as ceramic tiles by themselves, separate from porcelain tiles.
“Ceramic” or non-porcelain tiles are generally made from red or white clay fired in a kiln. They are almost always finished with a durable glaze which carries the color and pattern. These tiles are used in both wall tile and floor tile applications, are softer and easier to cut than porcelain, and usually carry a PEI 0 to 3 rating. Non-porcelain ceramic tiles are usually suitable for very light to moderate traffic and generally have a relatively high water absorption rating making them less frost resistant and they are more prone to wear and chipping than porcelain tiles.
Porcelain tile is a tile that is generally made by the dust pressed method from porcelain clays which result in a tile that is dense, impervious, fine grained and smooth, with a sharply formed face. Porcelain tiles usually have a much lower water absorption rate (less than 0.5%) than non-porcelain tiles making them frost resistant or frost-proof. Glazed porcelain tiles are much harder and more wear and damage resistant than non-porcelain ceramic tiles, making them suitable for any application from light traffic to the heaviest residential and light commercial traffic. Full body porcelain tiles carry the color and pattern through the entire thickness of the tile making them virtually impervious to wear and are suitable for any application from residential to the highest traffic commercial or industrial applications. Porcelain tiles are available in matte, unglazed or a high polished finish.